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foxhopper
11-28-2009, 06:42 PM
After sitting in a shed for about 6 years, and being rode very little for the last ten, I have decided to try to get my X fixed up a little. The last rider was a nephew who beat on it without my permission while it was stored in my Dads barn....Anyway, I have got it running and did the usual stuff like change the oil/filter and air filter. I also drained the gas tank and replaced the plug.

Question#1: Is there supposed to be a gasket for the oil filter cover? After the oil change it started leaking a little. I tried to tighten the bolts a wee bit more, and snapped one clean off :censored:. Fortunately I got the broken one out without too much trouble. There wasn't a gasket on it that I could see. After finding another bolt and putting it back together, I let it run for a few minutes and it still looks like it may be leaking. I think I cleaned both surfaces good. Anyone else have this problem?

2: While it starts fairly easy, it seems to hesitate when I give it gas. Also, it seems to idle funky. Sometimes fast, and other times it will idle down and quit. Seems to be worse when it has warmed up. You guys think it is a gummed up Carb? I don't seem to have any vacuum leaks.

One of the bolts that hold the header pipes on is rusted, stripped and needs replacing. It has a nut, but is kind of cross threaded on, so there is some exhaust leakage. Would this effect the idle?
I plan on getting this fixed, but I don't think I have the right tools, or guts to screw it up myself.

3: Rear master cylinder...Am I wrong from my searching that a rebuilt kit for the rear is nonexistant? I tried to bleed starting at the cylinder and working my way back, but couldn't get any flow.

I ended up pulling it off, but I don't yet have snap ring pliers to pull it apart to get it cleaned good.

I'm not much of a mechanic so I apologize in advance for any stupid questions. Any replies will be appreciated....Thanks

Fitz
11-28-2009, 08:13 PM
Hi. There should be an o-ring on the back of the oil filter cover. Your idling problem is probably a gummed up carburetor. I would try getting it cleaned. I don't think that your leaking header pipe will effect the idle. You are probably right about the master cylinder rebuild being nonexistent but don't take my word for it. Wait for some posts from other guys on here. They know lots more then me.

foxhopper
11-28-2009, 08:26 PM
Thanks for the reply Fitz...Yes, there is an o-ring on the cover. It looked ok, but maybe it isn't. The o-ring on the line that comes in also "looked" good, but like I said, I'm not to experienced with this stuff.

dom
11-28-2009, 09:51 PM
1. Yes, I remember there being an o-ring gasket. I think the oil filter comes with one.
Make sure all your surfaces are so fresh and so clean.

2. I would run some some clean fuel through it for a bit, maybe even add some gum out stuff to the tank for the hell of
it. If you still have the problem I would think it's time to pull the carb and go through it.

3. If I am not mistaken Canadian350x on here has a thread somewhere about rebuilding his front cylinder and said it sucked.
I would just purchase one rebuilt, or still operational. I hate playing hell with small parts. Then again it might be a simple rebuild, never tried.
What do you mean starting bleeding at the cylinder? You mean the caliper?

foxhopper
11-28-2009, 10:28 PM
1. Yes, I remember there being an o-ring gasket. I think the oil filter comes with one.
Make sure all your surfaces are so fresh and so clean.

2. I would run some some clean fuel through it for a bit, maybe even add some gum out stuff to the tank for the hell of
it. If you still have the problem I would think it's time to pull the carb and go through it.

3. If I am not mistaken Canadian350x on here has a thread somewhere about rebuilding his front cylinder and said it sucked.
I would just purchase one rebuilt, or still operational. I hate playing hell with small parts. Then again it might be a simple rebuild, never tried.
What do you mean starting bleeding at the cylinder? You mean the caliper?

There is a small o-ring on the filter, but there is a large one on the inside of the cover. The filter I got didn't come with the larger o-ring. I think I should maybe replace the large one if I can find one. I guess I was thinking that o-ring wouldn't be responsible for the leak because it is so much smaller then the cover, itself. I thought the cover itself might take a gasket. I guess I should look at the forum manual, but I have slow dial-up internet and I haven't been able to get the adobe reader to load very well.

I did add a small amount of carb/injector cleaner to the gas. not much, just a couple caps full.

Ebay has kits for the front...I need the back. I also checked Honda, Dennis Kirk etc. I do see a used one on ebay, but just because they say it works??? Seems like a pretty popular item with many bids too... Getting it running good is my first priority. I'm an old fart that mainly putts around. I don't really need brakes, but would be nice eventually...lol

First I tried bleeding at the bleeder on the caliper, but wasn't getting anything through. I read here (or somewhere else) that bleeding them was a real pain and that you may have to start by cracking the line at the cylinder first, to see if you have pressure...Than work your way back to the caliper. I could get no pressure even out of the top of the cylinder. After taking the cylinder off, it isn't seized but does feel gritty and doesn't seem to pump. I'm hoping when I can get the thing apart I can clean it up.

foxhopper
11-28-2009, 10:34 PM
I should add that I think everything is stock...jets, carb, pipes etc. I have read that rebuilding or cleaning the carbs is fairly easy, for you guys. I honestly have never messed with a carb on anything, so I'm a little intimidated by it.

GeoD
11-28-2009, 11:18 PM
Hi Fox. Welcome to the forum.

Im glad to hear you are getting your X back on the trails. Keep it alive!!!

I have a diagram of the oil filter assembly. You will notice there is a large Oring that goes on the cover. Then there is a rubber gasket that goes on the filter itself. OEM filters come with the rubber gasket. Cheap aftermarket ones do not. Make sure the filter is installed in the correct direction. Rubber gasket towards the outside and spring in the inside.

As for the rear master cylinder... You can get a complete one, brand new from Honda. It will cost approx $60. That will include the oil cup, the rubber diaphragm, the plate diaphragm, and the top cover. As for the rear brake hose from the master cylinder...that's discontinued. But its easy to buy some hosing to replace it. The brake lines are also discontinued but there are some nice aftermarket lines out there.

I would follow what the other peeps are saying about the carb. Try some good carb cleaner and run a complete tank with it. See if that helps. If not, you will have to get it cleaned. I don't really mess with carbs because Im not very fond of them. I usually pay my local Honda shop to setup my carbs for me. To me, its worth every penny.

You will probably need to cut the header bolt off and get a new one helicoiled in its place. Again, the Honda shop or a machine shop will be able to do this for you. It will cost a couple of bucks but again, its worth it.

Hope this helps. One thing you will want to do is dload the service manual that is available on the forum. It will help you a lot.

.

foxhopper
11-29-2009, 12:50 AM
Thanks for all the help. The oil filter is a Emgo and does have the o-ring, but didn't come with the large one. I do have the o ring on the filter facing outward, so that should be right. I guess if it really is still leaking, I will replace the large one if I can find one.

It's nice to know new cylinders can still be had. I was under the impression they were discontinued. I read somewhere that you could use a master off another bike...I was thinking about going that route if I really had to. I just might have to make a plate to mount it if the holes weren't the same...Last resort though.

As far as the carb, I think your right. I will probably take it somewhere if it doesn't clear up.

The header bolt I don't dare tackle myself, even if I had heat.

Thanks for the screen shot diagram...Like I said, I don't have fast internet so it takes forever to download the manual. I'm going to try again after this post.

I'm not really looking to totally restore this, just get it running good and be dependable. I really don't have much of any place to ride without going a long ways. It's mostly going to go back in the shed unless I go ice fishing, or need it to sneak back in the woods to drag out a deer.

Before I forget, I noticed what looks like a spacer on the long bolt that goes through the bottom front by the underneath skid guard. It looks like a shreded fiberglass arrow might look if you shot one into a concrete wall. Are there fiberglass spacers, or was I seeing things? It was getting dark, so I didn't check it out very good.

Lastly, what are these crank case guards I hear you guys talk about? Is it an add on?

I know, I know...this stuff is probably self explainatory if I could get the diagrams to open on my pos computer....

Once again, sorry if I sound like a moron.

GeoD
11-29-2009, 03:30 AM
You don't sound like a moron at all dude. These are all legit questions.

Im not sure exactly what you are trying to explain about the rear skidplate. Maybe a pic will help us out.

Since you have to be a bit sneaky with your riding I would recommend you keep your stock exhaust on. There are some silencers on the market that will fit with your OEM exhaust to make it virtually silent.

Case savers were installed on all 350X from the factory. If you don't have one they are available from Honda for approx $15. They are located in front of the front sprocket. Its a piece of metal that bolts on. Its a very simple part but its essential if you want to save your engine case if your chain pops off. I posted a pic below. The case saver is on the left. If you don't have one, I highly recommend you get one.

A great place of reference for Honda parts is BikeBandit.com. They keep their list current showing what is available and what is discontinued. Their link is on our Master Parts List (http://www.honda350x.com/forum/showthread.php?t=620). Check the list out when you get a chance...

.

SCUBA
11-29-2009, 10:11 AM
welcome abosrd Foxhopper,

before you pull the carb and take it to someone, I would take off the side cover (black plastic cover with 2 screws) from the carb and get some good penatrating oil (PB blast is what I use) and spray up into this area with attention given to the areas behind the springs. then wonk the linkage till it frees up. I just did this to my big red, it was froze up solid, and I had so start out with a scew driver to get it to move. But even with mine being so bad it was freed up in 20 min or so, just stay at it and if you can spray some up onto the butterfly on the inside but not to much that you wont be able to start the bike up later.

dom
11-29-2009, 10:43 AM
Good call Scuba.

foxhopper
11-29-2009, 01:57 PM
Thanks for all the help, everyone, and I will definately give the penetrating oil spray down a try Mr. scuba.

Looks like I do have a case guard. Thanks for the pic, Geo!

I really appreciate everyone who has taken the time to help me out!

GeoD
11-29-2009, 02:21 PM
No problem Fox. That's why we are here. Welcome to the club!!!

Post some pics of your ride once its up and running.

foxhopper
11-29-2009, 05:37 PM
One of the kids "borrowed" my camera about a month ago...I'll be lucky if I ever see it again in one piece. I have been checking out new ones and I might splurge on a new one for Christmas.

dom
11-30-2009, 11:26 AM
Thread about my new Camera (http://www.honda350x.com/forum/showthread.php?t=901&highlight=panasonic). It was cheap and it's awesome.

foxhopper
12-02-2009, 07:27 PM
before you pull the carb and take it to someone, I would take off the side cover (black plastic cover with 2 screws) from the carb and get some good penatrating oil (PB blast is what I use) and spray up into this area with attention given to the areas behind the springs. then wonk the linkage till it frees up. I just did this to my big red, it was froze up solid, and I had so start out with a scew driver to get it to move. But even with mine being so bad it was freed up in 20 min or so, just stay at it and if you can spray some up onto the butterfly on the inside but not to much that you wont be able to start the bike up later.

Well I tinkered around a little today and pulled the covers off the carb. Linkage wasn't rusty, but I lubed it up good anyway. I also sprayed the heck out of the insides with carb cleaner. It didn't improve anything, but didn't cost me much either.

One question I didn't get answered....Are the spacers on the front lower motor mount some kind of fiberglass composite? They are shredded looking fiber on mine and need replacing. Wish I had my camera.

Also pulled my front skid plate off and twisted off another bolt on the back. :censored: Seems like everything I do lately turns to chit...

zemke
04-28-2010, 04:08 PM
i have a 350x that i can 'USUALLY' start but after running it for awhile it wont start again, even if i let it sit a couple hrs.... i have to pull start it and even then it takes alot for it to finaly pop off, not to good wit carbs but i pulled it apart and everything seems to be fine, any suggestions? am i flooding it? even when pull starting it i have to jockey the choke around till i find the sweet spot then she finaly fires, today it started running really rough after i got it fired up almost like it was missing.... any suggestions would be great